I imagine a number of you have made bone arrow
points using stone tools. That’s an
interesting exercise and I have enjoyed going primitive on several occasions to fashion arrows and arrow points, bows, strings and the like with
rocks and teeth. But this post is about
using conventional steel tools like files and rasps and also store bought
sandpaper. Likewise, it’s about keeping things
quiet. I live in the woods where there are
no sirens, car horns, diesel trucks, lawnmowers or any of those other obscenities
associated with “modern society.” And I’m
not about to destroy this peaceful milieu by introducing motorized racket: No
belt sanders, rotary tools or whatever else passes for construction in that
other world beyond the gate.
Anyway, a neighbor’s cow went to bovine heaven a few
months ago. The vultures, coyotes and
various beetles had a great feast and now the bleached bones lie randomly
scattered and ready for various projects—in this case arrow points. I began by gathering the ribs. Cow ribs are tough structures and make
excellent tools.
The above photo shows a cow’s rib that’s already
been cut into a section and is ready for further cutting. I’m holding a blank point in one hand and you
can see another blank point on the table.
Using a coping saw I cut the rib in half
lengthwise. Be careful you keep the cut
in a straight line so you can use both halves to make points.
These are the tools I generally use. I won’t necessarily use all those tools on
every arrow point but I have the option to choose various implements as need
be.
Once I’ve cut the rib in half lengthwise (or at
least a piece I intend to make into a point) I’ll begin removing the spongy
bone within the rib.
I use a rasp to scrape off the spongy bone.
Here you can see how the rasp is removing the spongy
bone.
Now that the spongy bone has been removed I’ll start
to shape the point using a fine mill file.
Here you see the bone point is starting to take
shape.
Because the rib is slightly convex the arrow point
must be carefully filed in order to eliminate the curvature and give the arrow
a straight profile. Go slowly here because
if you overdo things you’ll just make the curvature worse. Remember also to go in reverse to what might
seem the logical direction. In other
words, you will straighten the bone by going up against the curvature in order
to obtain the straight line you are seeking.
The above photo shows the back of the point. Again, the rib’s shape in cross-section is
thicker on one end and thinner on the other.
You will want to even out the profile.
You will use both a fine mill file and sandpaper to get the lines
straight and even. Don’t be
impatient. File or sand a little bit and
then check the results. Go slowly!
Here I’m using 80-grit sandpaper to flatten the
outer part of the rear section of the point.
Again, it’s important to go slowly and check your work frequently.
I use various grades of sandpaper ranging from
80-grit to 500-grit.
Now it’s beginning to look nice. I’ve got the proportions top to bottom, left
to right and in cross-section all worked out and have smoothed out the bone
using increasingly fine grit sandpaper.
I use a fine rat-tail file to fashion the notches on
either side of the point. Make sure you
get the notches even on both sides or the point will not be symmetrical.
A labor of love: Bone points are actually stronger
than stone points and nearly as strong as steel points. The above points are suitable for medium or
large game up to the size of white-tailed deer.
Using fine grit sandpaper I’ve honed the edges to a razor sharp
finish. These points will cut you!
