Let me make it clear that whatever expertise I have regarding
knives and knife steel arrives from years of hobby bladesmithing and a lot of
self-study. I rarely, however, sell any
of my knives because I’m leery of letting my blades fall into the hands of
strangers. My reclusive lifestyle in the
woods fits my personality but it comes after years of, what I believe, was
fighting the good fight to preserve nature and the land. I’ve published hundreds of newspaper and
magazine articles and have now written three non-fiction books and one
novella. Nothing has ever come easy and
I’ve had my share of bad luck along the way.
In other words, I’ve paid my dues and at this point in my life I’d
rather not complicate things. I’ve
written that passions are the rudders that steer men’s lives and in my case my
love of nature, simplicity, minimalism and my family have plotted the course of
my day to day life. In my way of
thinking a knife plays a role in all of that.
As I’ve mentioned in this blog there are strong parallels between human
evolution and the construction of tools.
The knife, whether a rock flake or the product of a CNC machine, lies
deeply wedded to our collective unconscious; it bonds our present to our past;
it unites us as humans. In the late
afternoon I’ll walk to my little shed attached to one of our small barns and I’ll
instantly feel serene. Surrounded by
hammers and files, an anvil, a home-built forge, a small vise, shop-made tongs,
an ancient belt sander and drill press, and a new angle grinder purchased after
the one I’d owned for years decided it wanted to retire. Nothing fancy, nothing expensive (unless you
count the Kanca anvil I bought last year), and nothing all that modern. In the shed I’ve got a decent pile of
leaf-springs that have been turned into everything from large camp choppers to
small puukko styled blades. The steel is
5160, or so I’ve been told. I’ve not
encountered any problems with my leaf-spring steel so I’m content. I’ve made hook and crooked knives out of old
files (W1 or W2?) and I’ve also made knives from store-bought steel ordered
from a Texas distributor and an Oklahoma distributor.
If you want to know something about knife steel then I
suggest you go to technical websites or visit a library and read all you can on
metallurgy. These resources should be of
professional quality; in other words, they should be filled with empirically
obtained data based on bona fide research and sound engineering information. There will be some mathematics involved with
loads of graphs and a fair amount of chemistry as well. If this sort of stuff isn’t your bag then I
suggest you learn to work with one specific type of steel (1080, 1075 for
example) and be done with it. I know people
out there who hate science and would rather be tortured by a terrorist than
have to delve into anything mathematical or relating to chemistry or
physics. And yet, they want to make
knives. They might be good craftsmen or
women but they will never completely understand what they are doing nor will
they be well-versed in the technical sides of steel. I even know someone who bought two forges
(gas and charcoal) then bought a 200 pound anvil and only then did he try to forge
a knife. Mind you, he’d never forged
anything in his life. He tried to make
one knife from a railroad spike and realized it was not a simple thing to
accomplish and to my knowledge has never used his anvil or either of his forges
since then. This of course makes no
sense because the prudent thing to do would be to ease into the hobby
slowly. My first knives made years ago
were crude by all standards. It was
before the World Wide Web and as such my research into the field was limited to
what I could find at the library assuming I could find anything at all. True, I grew up next to a blacksmith shop but
never received any instruction from the busy blacksmith working there. My buddy and I used to watch the man using
the forge and pounding red-hot steel on his anvil. We used to cover our ears when he’d turn the
damn power hammer on—my mom hated that noise and so did I and my sister. Our house, by the way, was only about 40 feet
from the shop. Anyway, despite too many
years in academia all I really learned in the following decades was brought to
me via my own curiosity and insatiable desire to learn. I’m a self-learner never having cared much
for pontificating and oftentimes pedantic teachers and professors. Besides, long hours of sitting in rows are
bad for your back and after a while the teacher/professor turns into something
akin to a noisy cicada.
So it was that the chemistry and physics of steel came from a
lot of reading, and the experience of making knives came from a lot of
doing. Mind you, one place I seldom
visit is a knife forum. There are tons
of knife forums but they tend to give me hives or at least raise my blood
pressure. While you might get some good
information on a forum you are just as likely to receive crapola. Seriously, knife forums are jammed packed
with misinformation. A common thread on
knife forums is the use of “unknown steels.”
That’s a very touchy subject that is neither black nor white. Let it suffice to say that whatever you are
told on a knife forum should be checked and then double-checked. Don’t ever take anybody’s word for anything
until you’ve verified the information through detailed research. Here’s one example that centers on using used
lawnmower blades for knives. Now for
whatever reason there are people in the world who will automatically conclude
that any chunk of steel can be used to make a knife. Perhaps that’s why you’ll see “knife looking
objects” made out of rebar and railroad spikes.
And perhaps that’s why you’ve got people out there—on forums and even on
YouTube—saying they’ve made great knives out of lawnmower blades. Now I don’t know these folks and doubt I’ll
ever get a chance to meet them. But my
advice to you is don’t believe everything you see, hear or read on a forum or
on YouTube until you try it for yourself to verify its validity. Test the material first. Make sure there isn’t any quicksand along the
way.
Over the last few months a couple of friends have given me
dozens of riding lawnmower blades. Some
of these mower blades are brand new having been used on one particular riding mower that decided it didn’t want that
career anymore and so the owner had to get rid of it and buy a new one. The new mower uses a different blade size.
It wasn’t until a few nights ago that I finally got a chance
to check out the mower blades. The steel
looks interesting and there’s always the expectation that I’ll have obtained a
free source of knife steel. Keep in mind
that knife forums and YouTube are maggoty with people saying they made
fantastic knives with lawnmower blades. But
how can I really know one way or another?
Forums are notorious for people repeating old wives tales. One such tale says that lawnmower blades are
made of 1080 steel. The way these forum chismes (gossip) form is that one guy
will pull that information out of who knows where and then another guy will
say, “Well I heard that…” and then another guy will repeat it and then another
guy and before you know it one of the legions of self-anointed forum gurus will
say, “I’ve got it on good authority that lawnmower blades are made of 1080
steel.” Every now and then an actual
thinker will come along and say, “Wait, that doesn’t make much sense. If lawnmower blades are made of 1080 then
won’t they be too brittle to be used in such a manner?” Of course, that makes sense. A mower blade made of 1080 will likely snap
into pieces of shrapnel if it hits a stump or large rock. I can smell law suit. So it behooves manufactures to make mower
blades out of soft, malleable steel that will simply bend and not shatter. It would be a waste of money to use something
like 1080 and then temper it down to nothing so it won’t break apart when it’s
a lot less expensive to simply use cheaper, softer steel. Besides, soft steel wears out faster and
forces folks to buy more blades. Oh my,
don’t people understand how modern Capitalism works? Use
cheap labor and cheap materials but keep prices high. The object of the game is profit.
This discussion applies to all unknown steels from lawnmower
blades to mill files to steels you might find at the scrap yard. Some people will declare that the use of
unknown steels is tantamount to heresy; its mindless and when one does a
comparative analysis of costs, using unknown steels is in fact more expensive
than using store bought known-steels. To
which I say, Bull Scat! But I’ll shy
away from such an argument and simultaneously remind myself why I came to the
woods.
But for many knife-making or bladesmithing hobbyists there is
a primal desire to experiment with unknown steels, and that’s exactly how our
ancient ancestors felt when they wandered onto new territory and found a type
or rock heretofore never seen before.
“Hey, look at this rock. I’ve never seen rocks like this before.”
“Well aren’t you carrying your
knapping kit?”
“I sure am, cousin.”
“Well, give that rock a try. See what kind of spear point it makes….”
And in likeminded spirit the hobbyist
just has to experiment. A cost analysis
is measured not how a myopic economist might do it obsessed with “the market”
but instead how the inquisitive scientist proceeds. The economist lives in a little box but the
scientist lives in a cloud of wonder and imagination. So the hobbyist must experiment and to hell
with what others might preach.
So I picked up a mower blade and cut it into the shape of two
knife blanks. The first thing I noted
was that the steel felt soft to the angle grinder’s touch. Even so, there were some good Fourth of July
sparks shooting out so I remained hopeful.
I fired up the forge and warmed my canola oil-filled ammo can and then
set the two knife blanks into the fire. The
steel was about 3/16 inches thick or thereabouts and it didn’t take long to go
to critical. I plunged each red-hot
blank into the canola and then onto the table where I allowed the steel to cool. So far so good so I prepared for the file
test. I chose three files and took one
of the blanks and cradled it in my gloved hand and drew the file across the steel
(the anticipation mounting) and like a leopard’s claw ripping into soft flesh
the file raked a path across the steel.
Quickly, I took the other blank and tried one more time. The leopard’s claws dug even deeper. If steel could bleed, then this
knife-looking-object was in the midst of committing suicide. I turned and looked at that luscious pile of
lawn mower blades stacked against a wall.
A thought occurred: Maybe I’ll discover a mower blade of better
steel? Then another thought: In a couple
of days I’ll quench in water. I then
grabbed a piece of one of my leafsprings and tossed it into the forge along
with a piece of 1095. Waited to critical
temp then immersed in the canola then grabbed one of my leopard’s claws and it
began skating. No marks, no scratches,
good steel.
So what’s the lesson here?
First, you can hope for the best but you should be prepared to test
things first. Knife making with unknown steels is not a place for true
believers. You need to be a skeptical
scientist instead. Run the spark test,
heat-treat the steel, run a mill file across the result. Then do it again. Make a blade and run it through an obstacle
course. So do lawnmower blades work for
knife steel? Some folks claim they
do. Forgive me, however, if I roll my
eyes.
Shucks!
UPDATE:
I water quenched several samples of the lawnmower blades I have in my shop and none of them heat treated properly. As I see it, lawnmower blades are not suitable for knives of any sort. If you were planning to make a knife from a lawnmower blade then may I suggest you verify its potential by first heating a part of the blade to non-magnetic and then quenching it in water. A high carbon steel sample will invariably snap but a sample with inadequate carbon content will remain pliable and most likely bend. The mantra should be to check first before you proceed. Good luck with your projects.