Tuesday, April 12, 2016

THE HUNTER'S KNIFE

Visit bushcraft websites and you’d think the world revolves around the Scandinavian knife bevel.  Over the years bushcraft has somehow morphed into hiking and camping.  A guy takes a knife and makes fire sticks and then batons a small branch into two pieces and declares his knife a genuine bushcraft knife.  Truth is, however, that outside the industrialized world not many people think the same way.  In fact, tell someone your knife is an excellent woodcarving knife and he’ll wonder why you brought it into the brush.  You see, deep-rural folks are looking for a knife that will gut, skin and debone a deer or hog, maybe an elk or moose.  They want a knife that cuts through fur-ridden skin without snagging; a knife that stays sharp so time isn’t wasted having to re-sharpen it. Granted a lot of dudes shoot their animal and then truck it to the butcher shop.  But in most parts of the world—and around places where men are particular about who fillets their game—all the work is done by one or two fellows.


A couple of weeks ago my son, Jason, shot a large feral hog sow with a head shot.  Jason has been shooting since he was about five years old and he was hunting with his old man even before that.  Along with Jason was my son, Matthew, who first spotted the pig and then called it up.  Matthew spent the first five years of his life living in a cabin in the woods and is as adept at bushcraft as any man.  In fact, I’ll take it a step further.  In my life I’ve only known two men who could complete the process of butchering a deer or hog from gutting to producing professional fillets and various other cuts of meat using nothing more than one knife.  Heck, I can do all that but I’m by no means an artist like Matthew.  His cuts are made with such geometric precision you’d swear they were done with a bandsaw.  The other fellow I knew was my grandfather, Trinidad M. Valverde Sr.  My granddad was a master butcher, master carpenter, master woodsman and regional ethnobotanist.  He passed away when I was 24 years old but I spent my youth with him and got my start in the woodsman’s life from his tutelage beginning at about the age of four.



 After much effort we were able to bring the sow to the compound where we hoisted it up on a heavy A-frame for butchering.  Matthew went into the house and brought out a basket full of knives.  For whatever reason he started out with a Mora knife but after a few seconds he said, “Dad, this knife doesn’t work.”
          “Try one of mine,” I said and then handed Matthew one of the knives I’d made for him.

Matthew's number one hunting knife

We learned a valuable lesson that night that I’d like to share with you.  If all you’re going to do is tote along some packets of freeze-dried food and your tent or hammock; and your woods experience amounts to a few nights sleeping under the stars making fuego with ferro rods or fire steels then you’ll be fine with what has become known (incorrectly) as a bushcraft knife—or a pocket knife for that matter.  On the other hand, if you’re off to some foreign land or maybe into a real wilderness area where you’ll have to hunt or trap your food and then you’ll need to butcher it and prepare it and cook it you’ll need a different kind of knife.  This is where the stout blade with a deep secondary bevel works best.  I no longer see any reason to make woodcarving knives since I can buy them for ten bucks a copy from Brother Ragnar at his Ragweed Forge.  But when it comes to hunting knives or what some call “survival knives” or “camp knives” then I make my own.  I make them from 1080 or 01 steel 1/8 inch thick at the spine.  Blade lengths range from 3 ½ inches to four-inches.  The handles are always Micarta that I made from old jeans, brown canvas or cardstock.  I’ve also made general purpose knives from 15n20 steel at 3/32” spine widths.  The steels mentioned are excellent for all-purpose knives (hunting, butchering, camp-craft etc.) and when mated with secondary bevels at from 40-45 degrees they will cut through fur-ridden skin like a Scandi knife cuts through a piece of wood.  And no, I don’t sell my knives.


 Here are some of Matthew's hunting and general purpose knives. 

Below are some of my favorite general purpose knives







So then where can you buy a knife that would make a good hunting/general purpose knife?  First, I must admit that I’m not that experienced with using store bought knives since I always make my knives.  I’ve never even handled an ESEE knife but it seems to me that the ESEE 3 would make a good all-purpose knife.  I think that general purpose/hunting knives should be no thicker than 3mm (1/8”) at the spine.  Granted, I also make big choppers.  But those blades are simply hatchets made in the form of a knife.  I use 5160 steel for those blades.  They work for building camps but if I’m going to carry one of my choppers I’ll always carry a carbon steel pocket knife for carving or butchering.  (More on that in an upcoming post)  The ESEE 3 has a 1/8” blade.  The ESEE 4 is IMO too thick at .188” and so I don’t think I’d find it all that interesting.

There are scores of “hunting” knives and again I admit I’m not familiar with any of them other than what I’ve seen in photos.  Nonetheless, I prefer blades that have a basic, simple, no frills design.  I don’t care for gut-hooks.  I don’t like “tacti-cool” motifs.  I’m not into sweeping distorted blades that look like something out of a sci-fi movie or what Rambo would carry.  In other words, I’m not into the bizarre nor do I find those models practical or even aesthetic.  Some folks go ape over the tacti-cool stuff but those mutations are like the old “California gunstocks” of the late 1950s and 1960s with their flaring Monte Carlo combs and exorbitant cheekpieces and white-line spacers and box-like forends and diamond inlays.  Jeez, I hated those styles even as a kid.  It wasn’t until Ruger came out with the classic model 77 design back around 1967 that things started to settle down.  Until then I was on a steady diet of Jack O’Connor and Warren Page who understood stock design and acquired their rifles from the likes of Al Biesen and Jerry Fisher, Dale Goens and a fellow named Milliron.  Well, knives are as crazy these days as rifles were in the 1950s and 1960s.  Perhaps that’s why I prefer simple, reliable designs like ESEE and a few others.  But again, I’ve never handled an ESEE.  Maybe someday.

For now I’ll settle for my own handmade knives with secondary bevels.   They’re perfect hunting knives and “around the camp” knives.  Also I’m a stickler for proper heat treatment and tempering.  My personal knives work.  I’m content.

14 comments:

  1. Horses for courses I belief.
    For most of my needs ,camping,small game hunting,foraging,etc a Swiss army farmer knife is just fine.
    Bud a have a few more practical in my collection.
    No tactical or Rambo monstrosities do.
    Thanks for posting interesting as always.

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    1. Oh yes, I'm a fan of the SAK farmer as well. Great, practical knife for woods roaming and camping.

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  2. You do a excellent job painting a picture with words. Reminds me of the stories my great grandfather used to tell. I learned a lot from that old man, and have picked up some new tricks from you. Thanks.

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    1. John, thank you for taking the time to write me a note. When I was a kid we learned about the woods and how to live with the land from Old Timers who'd grown up in the Brushlands. Now it seems I'm an Old Timer. Like the men who taught me the ways of the woods, I'm happy to share what I learned along the way.
      Thanks, again.

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  3. Very well written.I really enjoy the Green river brand of knife. The hunter model does a fine job of most tasks I've used it at. I used to really into the latest pry bar bushcraft knife.

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    1. And besides, those Green River knives are lightweight and easy to keep razor sharp. Great knives for the camp and the hunt.
      Thanks

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  4. I'm a big fan of the old hickory butcher knife. I cut mine down a bit but you really don't have to. Good steel, easy to sharpen, and dirt cheap.

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    1. Old Hickory knives are favorites of mine too. We use them here at the cabin daily. Most of our knives have been slightly modified but the boning knife and the butcher knife need no modification. Actually, none of the Old Hickory knives need to be tampered with but I'm a bit nutty about messing with knives so just about everything gets some sort of mod.

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  5. After reading almost all your older post I have 2 questions. Both may seem silly, but I respect your opinion. I have a old cleaver that I want to modify for my oldest boy. To retemper this I need to first heat and quench correct and than put it in the oven? On the micarta scales I had great success with cloth, but my paper did not adhere, is it possible I thinned the resin out to much?

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    1. And by thinned it out to much I mean spread it out to thin, I followed the mixing directions.

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    2. John,
      You ask some interesting questions. First, concerning the old cleaver: The first thing you need to determine is if it's carbon steel or stainless steel. Assuming that it's carbon steel then we can start from there. If your plan is to modify its current shape then you should probably anneal the steal first. Otherwise, you risk burning the steel during the modification. Now, you can modify it without annealing the steel but it's going to be harder because it will be rougher on your equipment, particularly the grinding wheels whether an angle grinder or bench grinder, and you'll use up more belts on your belt grinder. If you intend to do the work by hand using hand files then you will for sure have to anneal the steel. So let's assume that you have decided to go the entire route and anneal the steel so it will be softer and thus easier to shape since annealing softens the steel.

      After you have properly annealed the steel (taken it up to red hot and then allowing it to cool very slowly over about a 24-30 hour period) you can begin to reshape the steel. Once that part of the project is completed you can heat-treat the steel and then quench it. I was just now thinking that I should do a very detailed post on how to accomplish all of this with lots of photos. In this way, you and others can see the method I use. As you have probably gathered, I am a minimalist living out here in the woods so my system is basic and fundamental. I haven't invested in a lot of expensive equipment nor have I built any sort of elaborate forge. Nonetheless, my system (after making hundreds of knives) works and for those who favor simplicity and yet want to make good knives, my system is sufficient. Let it suffice to say here that after you have heat-treated the steel then you temper it in order to take some of the stress out of the steel. A chopper made from a cleaver will be tempered further down than let us say a woodcarving knife. I temper my knives in a toaster oven. Of course, I've not included several intermittent steps so I will write the post when I make my next knife here shortly.

      Regarding the micarta scales: I agree, canvas or denim strips will absorb the epoxy much more thoroughly than certain kinds of paper, particularly card-stock. Construction paper, on the other hand, is more absorbent and thus works very well. But here's the thing to remember. Don't try to extend your work time by thinning out the mixture. That can make a mess and weaken your final product. Please refer to my post on making micarta scales. You want to make several smaller batches of epoxy that can be quickly readied (by adding the hardener) so that every strip you lay will be given the strongest mixture recommended. I follow the instructions precisely for making my epoxy. I purchase the gallon epoxy and hardener from Home Depot. You'll find it in the paint section. NOTE: Always wear a respirator when you mix this stuff. Do it outside if at all possible.

      I hope I've made the process a bit clearer. Even so, I will post a lengthy article on my knife making method in the near future.

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    3. John, one more note: What thins out the mixture once you've formed the micarta package is compressing it too much. That just squeezes out most of the epoxy. You need to find that middle ground for the micarta package you are making. In other words, don't squeeze the package too tightly, but instead just tight enough. That will insure that plenty of epoxy is left within the material and not squeezed out.

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  6. Thank you very much for your detailed answers. It is an old carbon cleaver that's kind of rough for anything but a full bore remodel. I have done several old butchers into various kitchen knives for my wife, but my boy wants a big hack knife. I liked big knives when I was young too so understand. I've annealed files and such but never thought to anneal the cleaver to work it easier. I think with the micarta I went to thin on the resin between layers and squeezed to much. Thanks again.---John

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  7. That's awesome that you make your own knives. I don't think it's too common or at least in the places I lived it isn't. If you're going to invest in good knives, then I think you should learn how to use and maintain it. http://www.topqualityknives.com/piranha-knives

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